“Sss!” The first piece of fish hissed as it plunged into a cast iron full of hot oil. Dredged in cornmeal, ready to be devoured between slices of white bread and topped with hot sauce, frying fish has been our tradition for generations.
Food historians say the tradition is commonplace in many water-centric communities. But, it took on a new meaning for our people, who realized a different level of autonomy by fishing during enslavement.
Fish was one of the few things we could catch, prepare, and eat without interference from enslavers.
Plantation work schedules slowed by Saturday afternoon, leaving the rest of the day open for fishing and with the catch fried by the evening. These impromptu fish get-togethers became a Saturday night ritual. Our people momentarily found freedom in the food as they mingled, shared stories and laughs, and broke bread together.
During the Great Migration, culinary traditions migrated with us. The fish fry became a popular fundraising tool for churches, and restaurants selling Southern classics, including barbeque and fried chicken, sprung up everywhere, providing a taste of home for many and reliable income for others.
Today, it remains a staple with varying regional twists. In the South, catfish, tilapia, and whiting are king. Perch and carp were Midwest favorites, and porgy is a popular option in the Mid-Atlantic.
Our food has always been a source of delicious joy worthy of celebration and remembrance.